Georgian 1750AD-1820AD
This period is named after England's King
George III. During this era, France and England were fashion rivals. Women's
fashions began to change significantly during the revolutionary period in
France.
Ladies usually wears a 'sackback' dress
developed from the flowing undress gowns of 17th century. They would usually wear
richly brocaded or embroidered silks during formal events or special occasions. Their day dress has a waist that has
become shorter and the bosom is padded by a muslin 'buffon' neckerchief and the
hips by a 'false rump'. Their hair is usually styled in big loose curls and
wore a big hat. Woollen cloth, cotton and linen were the most famous fabrics
for their garments, while silks were worn for evening.
Men had the instinct that dark, well cut
and fitted clothes were smarter than colourful grandiose clothes. They usually
wore a cut-away cloth coat with brass buttons, plain waistcoat matching his
pantaloons, hessian riding boots and a hard conical riding hat. For evening, they
would usually wear a black coat and silk pantaloons instead of old fashioned
knee breeches.
Women’s hair
Hairstyle, were at first, kept close to
the head but then rose up, sometimes in really extravagant way, particularly in
the 1770s.. In the 1780s the "hedgehog" style came in which was reasonably
high but wide and often worn with a broad-brimmed hat. Wigs, head piece, and
white powder were commonly used on women’s hair.
Sack Dress/Watteu Pleat
The standard style of the era, named after
Watteau the painter. The original dress was a loose sack or dress, worn over a
tight bodice and full underskirt. The front would either hang loose or fit at
the waist, worn closed or open. The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats
and soft, wide cuffs. In the 1740's a pagoda-shaped sleeve started, tight from
shoulder to elbow where it spread into flaring ruffles headed by ribbon bows.
Panniers
These baskets were used to hold out the
skirt. The hoops were made outof reed or whalebone, held together with ribbons.
The frame work was covered with a taffeta or brocade hoop. The hoop was first
funnel-shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat
front and back.
Robe
The open robe dress would let the petticoat
to be seen underneath. It requires a covering for the bodice front too, this
was called a stomacher
Petticoats
There were petticoats that were meant to
be seen, there were also some petticoats underneath which were worn as
underwear. Cloth “pockets” were common. These were a pair of flat cloth pouches
sewn onto a cloth band which tied around the waist underneath the outer
garments. They were accessed through slits in the sides of the skirt.
Stomacher
Often shield shaped and worn on top or
under the open robe at the bodice.
Sleeves
These were generally about elbow length letting the chemise to show from
underneath, and often ended in ruffles.
Skirts
Skirts were usually sewn onto the bodice and hung to almost floor
length. It covered the back but was open in the front to reveal the petticoat. This
petticoat was a skirt which was meant to be seen. During the 1770s it became a
popular option to drape the skirt up on the sides and/or rear. This style was
known as “a la Polonaise.”
Chemise
The shift was the bottom undergarment worn under everthing. It was
usually made out of linen or cotton and in appearance was something like a
calf-length nightgown. A woman in only her chemise was considered “naked”.
Reticule
A reticule was a small handbag that could be hung from the wrist to be
used in the same way women use an evening bag. The reticule became an
indispensable accessory because the line of the newly fashionable high-waisted
Empire gowns would be interrupted by any object lodged in a pocket.
Footwear
Shoes were usually made out of leather though fancy shoes or dance
slippers might be of silk. Shoes were usually black or brown, but wealthy
people would have them in other colours as well. The buckle could be made of
pewter, brass, silver or gold. Very wealthy Europeans would sometimes have them
decorated with gems, and/or precious stones.
Men's
French Styles
Breeches became longer, and were replaced by pantaloons or
trousers for fashionable look. Coats were cutaway in front with long skirts or
tails behind, and had tall standing collars. The lapels featured an M-shaped
notch. Shirts were made of linen, had attached collars, and were worn with
stocks. Pleated frills at the cuffs and front opening went unpopular at the end
of the period. Waistcoats were high-waisted, but came in a wide selection of
styles. They were often double-breasted, with wide lapels and stand collars.
English Styles
In the matter of evening wear, that standard consisted of
Beau Brummell’s 1801 black-and-white was the dress code in 1837. A typical
wardrobe would include: plain riding boots, the tasselled German Hessians. Pantaloons,
a skin-tight buckskin or wool, like modern day ski pants with a strap under the
foot to prevent wrinkles. Coat, usually looks like of a dark colour of an
exquisite cut with tails. Shirts were white linen of fine lawn or muslin. Waistcoats
were usually made out of wool, linen or silk showing slightly below the high
cut of the front of the coat. Cravat were an intricately tied and well starched
neck cloth, or stock.
Hair
Men usually worn hats that were tall, straight and black
with a narrow curled up brim. Perhaps the most popular men’s hairstyle of the Regency era
was short to medium at the sides and back but longer on top where the hair was
often brushed upwards for height. Some men did wear their hair long,
particularly on the European Continent. Sideburns became very popular. Otherwise,
almost all men were clean shaven. Moustaches were worn by a few military
officers. Beards or goatees were not popular. Wigs were still common in the
early part of the era but their use had all but died out by the end.
Footwear
Buckled shoes gradually went out and lace up shoes came in.
Most shoes would be black and made out of leather. Both low cut shoes and ankle
high boots were worn. "Bluchers," "Wellingtons" and a global
style that modern English riding boots were all used. Stockings were long and made
out of wool, cotton or silk.
Modern outfit
My chosen modern outfit for Georgian Era is a dress from Zac Posen
Resort 2015 collection. It features a similar look to a stomacher around the waist;
it is fitted and has a structure that is similar to a stomacher. It is also
attached on the waist as well. It has the W shape on the front of the stomach
which is quite similar to the V shape, which is common for the women’s
stomacher. It also appears to be like a sort of opening on the skirt part of
the dress that gives the look that it opens in the center. Like the women’s
Georgian robe, this Zac Posen dress gives off the illusion of a robe like
opening in the skirt. It has a slit in the middle, which the hem finishes off
in the middle and opens sideways down to the floor.
References:
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