Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Edwardian 1901-1919

The Edwardian era was reigned by King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. Fashion in European and European-influenced countries continued the long elegant lines of the 1890s. Even though Edwardian fashion for women were limiting, it is said that Edwardian women's clothing has some of the most stylish fashion in the history of women’s wear. Women stopped wearing corsets and had a lot of fashion changes, men’s fashion, however, developed slowly and only had a few changes. During the last decades of the 19th century, the ready- made garment industry has started. This was a factory] that mass produced clothing in an identical form. However, the garments were limited only within a particular company or brand and variation among sizes was common.


Women’s Wear

The ‘S’ bend:
These were invented in early 1900’s and popularized by the Gibson Girls. It was also called straight front corsets or health corsets. S-bend was thought to be healthier because it is positioned less direct pressure on the front of the abdomen. It also promoted a “proud” posture, and may have affected pace in such a way that caused a lady to swing her hips in a lovely manner. However, this style was discovered to be worse for the spine, compared to a Victorian corset which maintains a more neutral posture.

Blouses:
The women’s blouse became more decorative with detailed trimmings. Pouches of cascading lace or gathered fabric were placed at the front of bodice to give emphasis to the bust line.

Bolero:
A small cutback outerwear that is similar to jacket and was popular among women.

Lace and Collars:
High necks were common to wear during day time, but low sweetheart, square or round neckline were worn at night, because women were able to wear a lot of jewellery.

Headdress:
By 1902 pompadour frames were used as support and base for the women’s hair styles. Hats featured wide brims and trims such as feathers were decorated beyond the brim. The hats were named Merry Widow, which was named after the popular operetta by that time.

The Working Woman:
During the Edwardian period, many women started working and they had tailor-made suits which were an all-purpose outfit that was functional, comfortable and fashionable.  These were consisted of a narrow skirt, simple jacket, and basic blouse. These could also be worn daily and when women were travelling.

The Hobble Skirt:
These skirts were slim, and forced the wearer to walk into tiny steps. By 1912, the hobble skirt became more comfortable to wear, by adding slits, hidden pleats, and draping at the skirt. This allowed women to have extra movement.

WWI:
Women wore wider skirt and needed layers of Victorian style hoops known as war crinoline. This also allowed them to freely move. Since most of the men who worked join the military, women had to do the job that men used to do. They started wearing breeches/trousers.

Men’s Wear

The Lounge Suit:
Worn with lounge jacket which replaced the morning and frock coat. It usually has a high neck feature with short lapels and is double breasted.

Formal Wear:
The top or silk hat was worn with the frock coat, morning coat and evening wear.

Trousers:
Has roomy hips and legs that hung straight down to the ankles,  elongated slightly and were cuffed at the bottom.

WWI:
Men became less fashionable and wore trench coat, since it was considered as a useful piece of clothing and has become a part of the military uniform. After the war, men wore looser jacket that gives a square shape to the body.


Edwardian Era - Casual wear

Fashion Plate

Men's fashion


Modern Outfit


This is my chosen modern outfit inspired by the Edwardian Era. I found this picture on a Korean online shop that sells Victorian inspired clothes. In the outfit, there are a lot of features that were taken from the Edwardian Era. The hat was inspired by the style and colour of men's boat hat, but the decorative flower was added to make it more feminine. The top was inspired by the women's blouses which has trimmings. The blouse was also inspired by the women's day wear because of its high collar, which was commonly worn by women by day. The blouse has a ribbon/flower decoration in front because it was common for the women to have adornments such as lace and ribbons on their garments. The sleeves had ruffles as well, which was popular during the Edwardian era. The skirt has a similar feature to the hobble skirt, which is restricting women’s steps.



References:
http://www.fotolibra.com/gallery/23019/edwardian-fashion-plate-circa-1910/
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/9288742952216717/
http://www.fashion-era.com/the_mood_of_edwardian_society.htm
http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/view1900.html
http://www.citelighter.com/film-media/fashion/knowledgecards/womens-fashions-of-the-edwardian-era







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