Edwardian 1901-1919

The Edwardian era was reigned by King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. Fashion in European and European-influenced countries continued the long elegant lines of the 1890s. Even though Edwardian fashion for women were limiting, it is said that Edwardian women's clothing has some of the most stylish fashion in the history of women’s wear. Women stopped wearing corsets and had a lot of fashion changes, men’s fashion, however, developed slowly and only had a few changes. During the last decades of the 19th century, the ready- made garment industry has started. This was a factory] that mass produced clothing in an identical form. However, the garments were limited only within a particular company or brand and variation among sizes was common.

Women’s Wear

The ‘S’ bend:

These were invented in early 1900’s and popularized by the Gibson Girls. It was also called straight front corsets or health corsets. S-bend was thought to be healthier because it is positioned less direct pressure on the front of the abdomen. It also promoted a “proud” posture, and may have affected pace in such a way that caused a lady to swing her hips in a lovely manner. However, this style was discovered to be worse for the spine, compared to a Victorian corset which maintains a more neutral posture.

Blouses:

The women’s blouse became more decorative with detailed trimmings. Pouches of cascading lace or gathered fabric were placed at the front of bodice to give emphasis to the bust line.

Bolero:

A small cutback outerwear that is similar to jacket and was popular among women.

Lace and Collars:

High necks were common to wear during day time, but low sweetheart, square or round neckline were worn at night, because women were able to wear a lot of jewellery.

Headdress:

By 1902 pompadour frames were used as support and base for the women’s hair styles. Hats featured wide brims and trims such as feathers were decorated beyond the brim. The hats were named Merry Widow, which was named after the popular operetta by that time.

The Working Woman:

During the Edwardian period, many women started working and they had tailor-made suits which were an all-purpose outfit that was functional, comfortable and fashionable.  These were consisted of a narrow skirt, simple jacket, and basic blouse. These could also be worn daily and when women were travelling.

The Hobble Skirt:

These skirts were slim, and forced the wearer to walk into tiny steps. By 1912, the hobble skirt became more comfortable to wear, by adding slits, hidden pleats, and draping at the skirt. This allowed women to have extra movement.

WWI:

Women wore wider skirt and needed layers of Victorian style hoops known as war crinoline. This also allowed them to freely move. Since most of the men who worked join the military, women had to do the job that men used to do. They started wearing breeches/trousers.

Men’s Wear

The Lounge Suit:

Worn with lounge jacket which replaced the morning and frock coat. It usually has a high neck feature with short lapels and is double breasted.

Formal Wear:

The top or silk hat was worn with the frock coat, morning coat and evening wear.

Trousers:

Has roomy hips and legs that hung straight down to the ankles,  elongated slightly and were cuffed at the bottom.

WWI:

Men became less fashionable and wore trench coat, since it was considered as a useful piece of clothing and has become a part of the military uniform. After the war, men wore looser jacket that gives a square shape to the body.

Edwardian Era - Casual wear

Fashion Plate

Men's fashion

Modern Outfit

This is my chosen modern outfit inspired by the Edwardian Era. I found this picture on a Korean online shop that sells Victorian inspired clothes. In the outfit, there are a lot of features that were taken from the Edwardian Era. The hat was inspired by the style and colour of men's boat hat, but the decorative flower was added to make it more feminine. The top was inspired by the women's blouses which has trimmings. The blouse was also inspired by the women's day wear because of its high collar, which was commonly worn by women by day. The blouse has a ribbon/flower decoration in front because it was common for the women to have adornments such as lace and ribbons on their garments. The sleeves had ruffles as well, which was popular during the Edwardian era. The skirt has a similar feature to the hobble skirt, which is restricting women’s steps.

References:

http://fashionthroughtime1.blogspot.co.nz/2012/12/edwardian-era-queen-victoria-died-in.html

http://www.fotolibra.com/gallery/23019/edwardian-fashion-plate-circa-1910/

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/9288742952216717/
http://www.fashion-era.com/the_mood_of_edwardian_society.htm
http://www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/view1900.html
http://www.citelighter.com/film-media/fashion/knowledgecards/womens-fashions-of-the-edwardian-era

Georgian 1750AD-1820AD

This period is named after England's King George III. During this era, France and England were fashion rivals. Women's fashions began to change significantly during the revolutionary period in France.

Ladies usually wears a 'sackback' dress developed from the flowing undress gowns of 17th century. They would usually wear richly brocaded or embroidered silks during formal events or special occasions. Their day dress has a waist that has become shorter and the bosom is padded by a muslin 'buffon' neckerchief and the hips by a 'false rump'. Their hair is usually styled in big loose curls and wore a big hat. Woollen cloth, cotton and linen were the most famous fabrics for their garments, while silks were worn for evening.

Men had the instinct that dark, well cut and fitted clothes were smarter than colourful grandiose clothes. They usually wore a cut-away cloth coat with brass buttons, plain waistcoat matching his pantaloons, hessian riding boots and a hard conical riding hat. For evening, they would usually wear a black coat and silk pantaloons instead of old fashioned knee breeches.

Women’s

Women’s hair

Hairstyle, were at first, kept close to the head but then rose up, sometimes in really extravagant way, particularly in the 1770s.. In the 1780s the "hedgehog" style came in which was reasonably high but wide and often worn with a broad-brimmed hat. Wigs, head piece, and white powder were commonly used on women’s hair.

Sack Dress/Watteu Pleat

The standard style of the era, named after Watteau the painter. The original dress was a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and full underskirt. The front would either hang loose or fit at the waist, worn closed or open. The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs. In the 1740's a pagoda-shaped sleeve started, tight from shoulder to elbow where it spread into flaring ruffles headed by ribbon bows.

Panniers

These baskets were used to hold out the skirt. The hoops were made outof reed or whalebone, held together with ribbons. The frame work was covered with a taffeta or brocade hoop. The hoop was first funnel-shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back.

Robe

The open robe dress would let the petticoat to be seen underneath. It requires a covering for the bodice front too, this was called a stomacher

Petticoats

There were petticoats that were meant to be seen, there were also some petticoats underneath which were worn as underwear. Cloth “pockets” were common. These were a pair of flat cloth pouches sewn onto a cloth band which tied around the waist underneath the outer garments. They were accessed through slits in the sides of the skirt.

Stomacher

Often shield shaped and worn on top or under the open robe at the bodice.

Sleeves

These were generally about elbow length letting the chemise to show from underneath, and often ended in ruffles.

Skirts

Skirts were usually sewn onto the bodice and hung to almost floor length. It covered the back but was open in the front to reveal the petticoat. This petticoat was a skirt which was meant to be seen. During the 1770s it became a popular option to drape the skirt up on the sides and/or rear. This style was known as “a la Polonaise.”

Chemise

The shift was the bottom undergarment worn under everthing. It was usually made out of linen or cotton and in appearance was something like a calf-length nightgown. A woman in only her chemise was considered “naked”.

Reticule

A reticule was a small handbag that could be hung from the wrist to be used in the same way women use an evening bag. The reticule became an indispensable accessory because the line of the newly fashionable high-waisted Empire gowns would be interrupted by any object lodged in a pocket.

Footwear

Shoes were usually made out of leather though fancy shoes or dance slippers might be of silk. Shoes were usually black or brown, but wealthy people would have them in other colours as well. The buckle could be made of pewter, brass, silver or gold. Very wealthy Europeans would sometimes have them decorated with gems, and/or precious stones.

Men's

French Styles

Breeches became longer, and were replaced by pantaloons or trousers for fashionable look. Coats were cutaway in front with long skirts or tails behind, and had tall standing collars. The lapels featured an M-shaped notch. Shirts were made of linen, had attached collars, and were worn with stocks. Pleated frills at the cuffs and front opening went unpopular at the end of the period. Waistcoats were high-waisted, but came in a wide selection of styles. They were often double-breasted, with wide lapels and stand collars.

English Styles

In the matter of evening wear, that standard consisted of Beau Brummell’s 1801 black-and-white was the dress code in 1837. A typical wardrobe would include: plain riding boots, the tasselled German Hessians. Pantaloons, a skin-tight buckskin or wool, like modern day ski pants with a strap under the foot to prevent wrinkles. Coat, usually looks like of a dark colour of an exquisite cut with tails. Shirts were white linen of fine lawn or muslin. Waistcoats were usually made out of wool, linen or silk showing slightly below the high cut of the front of the coat. Cravat were an intricately tied and well starched neck cloth, or stock.

Hair

Men usually worn hats that were tall, straight and black with a narrow curled up brim. Perhaps the most popular men’s hairstyle of the Regency era was short to medium at the sides and back but longer on top where the hair was often brushed upwards for height. Some men did wear their hair long, particularly on the European Continent. Sideburns became very popular. Otherwise, almost all men were clean shaven. Moustaches were worn by a few military officers. Beards or goatees were not popular. Wigs were still common in the early part of the era but their use had all but died out by the end.

Footwear

Buckled shoes gradually went out and lace up shoes came in. Most shoes would be black and made out of leather. Both low cut shoes and ankle high boots were worn. "Bluchers," "Wellingtons" and a global style that modern English riding boots were all used. Stockings were long and made out of wool, cotton or silk.

Modern outfit

My chosen modern outfit for Georgian Era is a dress from Zac Posen Resort 2015 collection. It features a similar look to a stomacher around the waist; it is fitted and has a structure that is similar to a stomacher. It is also attached on the waist as well. It has the W shape on the front of the stomach which is quite similar to the V shape, which is common for the women’s stomacher. It also appears to be like a sort of opening on the skirt part of the dress that gives the look that it opens in the center. Like the women’s Georgian robe, this Zac Posen dress gives off the illusion of a robe like opening in the skirt. It has a slit in the middle, which the hem finishes off in the middle and opens sideways down to the floor.

References:

http://www.maggiemayfashions.com/regency.html

http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Georgian-Fashion/

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

https://learning.wintec.ac.nz/mod/book/view.php?id=156485&chapterid=10660

http://www.georgianindex.net/Reticule/Chatelaine.html

http://www.janeausten.co.uk/an-overview-of-mens-fashion-during-the-regency/

http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm

http://www.citelighter.com/film-media/fashion/knowledgecards/mens-fashions-of-the-regency-era

http://artifexlohn.wordpress.com/2013/04/18/georgian-era-for-fashion/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/139400550941235623/

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/108930884712016833/

RENAISSANCE1450AD-1600AD

 The Renaissance spanned the 14th through the 17th century. The Renaissance was best known for its love for art and the contributions such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo.

They often dressed themselves in bright coloured robes, gowns and other garments. The upper class uses silk and in times, would forbid the lower class to own a silk. Gold and silver thread would be embroidered on fabric showing scenes from legends, nature or religions. They also fancied wearing jewellery, furs, and elaborate belts. Wigs crafted from peasant’s hair were also popular. The way a person from Renaissance dresses up shows their status in life. However, one of the popular fashion trends, "slashing" originally started from the commoners.

Their garments usually have rich heavy materials, with big volume, large sleeves, close body garments, large hip-clothing, wide-toed, heelless shoes and covered heads masculine and feminine. Colours of this era are loud, often dark colours. Black velvet was an essential fabric, especially in headdresses.

UNISEX
Slashing - Slits cut in a garment and have a fabric from the undergarment pulled through to form puffs.
Ruffs - Starched with different colours and wired collar pleated into ruffles, either made of lace or jewellery, and had matching cuffs.
Lace - Before the renaissance, lace was not used in clothing. Heavily used during this era. 

MEN
Camica - Men’s undershirt usually made of white linen.
Doublet - Worn over the camica, the doublet is a fitting jacket with or without sleeves. If it was longer it would be fitted with a skirt attached.
Jacket – Men’s outer garment. Often have full pleats and be belted at the waist. The sleeves would match at the wrists and the arm would not always sit in the sleeve, sometimes leaving the sleeve to hang with the arm coming out of a slash.
Cod Piece – A padded triangle of fabric worn laced to the front of the trunk hose over the groin.
Jerkin - A short velvet or leather jacket, usually sleeveless, alike to a vest/waistcoat.
Upper Hose—Upper hose or full trunks that prolonged from upper thighs to waist.
Nether Hose —Stockings that concealed the lower part of the leg. Usually rolled above the knee and secured by garters.
Flat cap - A flat hat with soft crown and has a broad brim.
Duckbill shoes - Very wide square-toed, slipper-like shoes, decorated with jewels, puffs or slashes. 

WOMEN
Chemise - The chemise is a woman’s under dress and would form the shape of the outer dress worn with corsets and farthingales.
Bodice - Worn as separates or part of a dress. Often had a square neckline and cut lower to reveal the chemise. The sleeves became wide at top with a close fit at the wrist.
Skirt - Either worn as separates or part of a dress.

Spanish Farthingale (mid renaissance) - cone like shape, narrow at the waist and wide at the feet with a straight line in between.

French Farthingale (late renaissance) - barrel like shape, wide at the waist (straight out from the body) and straight down to wide at the feet.

Outer dress - Worn over all other layers, sometimes be open down the front from the waist.

Headdress - Women's hair and head dresses were the most elaborate, most time consuming parts of       women's fashion. Women will take time plucking their hairline back because a high forehead was considered fashionable. The remaining hair will be covered back with the fashionable head dress.

Chopines – shoes that elevated the wearer, eventually developed into high heels. Usually worn to keep the feet from water and mud.   

French Farthingale

 Men's Renaissance Clothing

Women's Renaissance Clothing

  

Modern Outfit Inspired by Era

Virginia Dress featured in the movie Bride Wars

Close up of the dress 

For my modern outfit inspired by Renaissance period, I have chosen Vera Wang’s wedding dress. This dress was featured in the movie Bride Wars released in 2009. This dress was worn by Kate Hudson’s character, Liv, on her wedding day on the movie. This dress is called the Virginia Gown. The dress has some similar features of the women’s Renaissance dress. It is very similar to the French Farthingale, it has a barrel like shape and goes wide on the waist and goes down to the feet. The bodice is made up of lace, which seemed to have only started in the Renaissance period, and lace was heavily used during the era. The era was also known for having big volume garments, close body garments and large hip clothing. The Virginia Gown is made up of these specific characteristics, its tulle is around 10 layers, which made it really big and voluminous, and the upper part is very close fitting to the body, and it shows the illusion of large hip because of the French Farthingale. The Renaissance’s women skirts are usually long and the Virginia Gown is long, reaching the feet. 

References:

https://learning.wintec.ac.nz/mod/book/view.php?id=156485&chapterid=10658

http://fashionhistory.zeesonlinespace.net/renaissance.html

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/renaissance.htm

http://historyofeuropeanfashion.wordpress.com/category/renaissance-1450-1650/

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0901476/faq?ref_=tt_faq_3#.2.1.4

http://www.pinterest.com/marycullinane/1500s-costume-renaissance/

http://angielscy.blogspot.co.nz/2012/06/renaissance-mens-clothing-silhouette-of.html

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/421368108856172168/

http://simplecourtesy.blogspot.co.nz/2011/07/vera.html

BYZANTINE FASHION

BYZANTINE – 550 AD
As the Roman Empire starts to fall, the Byzantine Empire began to grow. It lasted for 1000 years and ended around 1453 AD. 

Key Style Features:Most fabrics that were used were wool, silk and linen. Coloured fabrics were usually used by the upper class and most of the fabrics had animal, floral or Biblical scenes patterns. Men had cropped hair with bangs on the forehead, while women wore their hair up, and sometimes they would wrap their hair using turbans.

Perpendula                  
Pearls or other exquisite materials attached on the side (by the ears) and hanging from the crown, it is mostly confused with earrings. 

Tablion
An elegant, oblong decoration embellished with gold or red on their imperial mantle, used to protect garment from too much wear. Rich people had the option to choose between colours. 

Tunic/Tunica
Sleeves are in one with the garment, or pieced on with a straight seam. It has a high neckline and has a little slit for the head. The length varied from below the knees to instep. 

Cope
A half-moon shape cape that is embellished and attached to the chest with an ornamental band, it is sewn to an edge then pinned by a morse to the other edge. 

Mitre
The first of these were low caps, and the points were on the side instead of front and back.  

Foliated crown
It is a type of ornamental crown with a pointed upper edge, usually decorated with leaf or scallop design. 

Stola/Chemise

An undergarment with long sleeves that showed under the sleeves. Men wore it beneath their tunics.

PaludamentumA semi-circular cape that pinned on the shoulder. 

ManiakisThe byzantine decorative gold coloured collar. 

BliautA garment that created and worn by men and women around 1130. As worn by the upper classes, it has a snug-fitting torso, frequently with wide embroidered sleeves, a low skirt pulled into elegant pleats across the hip, and snug lacing up the back under each arm. It was one of the first garments to depend on fit and cut.

Bliaut

Modern outfit inspired by era:

Zoe Saldana at premiere of her new movie Colombiana.

For the modern outfit inspired by the era, I have chosen Zoe Saldana's dress at the premier of her movie, Colombiana. I thought that the dress was inspired by the bliaut, and it was a great modern interpretation of it. The dress has gold coloured embellishment on the upper part of it which was one of the colours that was highly used for the embroidery of garments and fabrics during the Byzantine era. The Byzantine era is also known for using decorative embellishments or patterns on their fabric. The foliated crowns usually have scallop or leaves for its design purposes, and Zoe’s dress embroidery has shown some Greek like leaves formed like a wreath on the shoulder and neck part of her dress. Her dress was highly embellished which is the same for the garment of the higher class people in the era. Zoe’s dress and the bliaut has similarities such as having drapes, having pleats, snug fit under bust abdomen, floor length and long sleeves. Bliaut sleeves are usually wide from the elbow to the hem, but Zoe’s dress was modern, which is why it was fit from sleeve to hem. 

Links/Reference:

http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=6UGgQY_31IcC&pg=PA3&lpg=PA3&dq=maniakis+byzantine&source=bl&ots=kQNTdHzzDg&sig=uRQ92qusYL7XL06teKHiY3yvypQ&hl=en&sa=X&ei=6ijtU8nBG4Xt8AWcpYLoDw&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=maniakis%20byzantine&f=false

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romanesque.htm

http://www.cfa.ilstu.edu/lmlowel/the331/byzantine/byzreview.html

http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/Early-Cultures-Europe-in-the-Middle-Ages/Bliaut.html

http://pipsqueakjr.blogspot.co.nz/2011/09/byzantine-clothing.html

http://www.studyblue.com/notes/note/n/exam2-ch5/deck/2501184

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2029065/Colombiana-premiere-Zoe-Saldana-takes-plunge-daring-gladiator-style-dress.html

http://www.pinterest.com/pin/276127020875314606/